- SEPAWA Congress
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- Program
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- Poster Exposition
Our Poster Expositions
A special part of the SEPAWA® CONGRESS is the scientific and application-oriented poster exhibitions in the categories of Home Care, Personal Care, Fragrance Fundamental Research and Sustainability.
Visit our poster exhibition during regular opening hours.
010 | Effect of Citrate on Stain Removal Performance in Laundry Detergents
European Detergents Conference
| Fundamental Research
Citric acid is one of the most widely produced organic acids in the world. It is produced by fermentation from sustainable resources such as sucrose or glucose. Its production process and biodegradability make citric acid an eco-friendly raw material for detergents.
Citrate (mostly used in the form of sodium citrate) is mainly used as a builder in laundry detergents. Its acidic form, citric acid, is preferred for pH adjustment in liquid laundry detergents. It has been repotrted that citric acid can boost surfactant performance by reducing water hardness via sequestering calcium and magnesium ions. The effect of citrate goes beyond surfactant action, as the amount of available calcium ions have impact on protease and amylase stain removal performances. In addition, calcium ions impart structural stability to protease and amylase which has a significant effect on enzyme stability in liquid laundry detergents. Furthermore, the effectiveness of citrate in removing bleach-sensitive stains such as tea and wine stains makes its use in liquid detergents more promising.
In this study; the effect of citrate on surfactant performance, enzyme activity, enzyme stability and stain removal properties were syatematically evaluated. Citrate mediated tea stain removal and oxidant mediated stain removal mechanisms are discussed in detail.
011 | The Role of Marine Saponins in Developing Green Detergents and Functional Foods
European Detergents Conference
| Fundamental Research
Vicente Domínguez-Arca *1,2, Thomas Hellweg *2 and Luis T. Antelo *1
1) Biosystems and Bioprocess Engineering (Bio2Eng) Group. IIM-CSIC, 36208 Vigo, Spain
2) Physical and Biophysical Chemistry, Bielefeld University, Bielefeld, 33615, Germany
Presenting author e-mail: vdominguez@iim.csic.es
Keywords: Saponins, Biourfactant, Functional Food, Nutraceuticals, Eco-Friendly Detergents
__________
The emerging field of saponin research has recently expanded beyond its traditional pharmacological and nutraceutical [1] realms into novel industrial applications [2], such as eco-friendly detergent technologies. This study delves into the multifaceted roles of marine-derived saponins, primarily from sea cucumbers and starfish, exploring their structural and biochemical properties and potential applications in both nutraceutical-related fields and industrial uses. Marine saponins are distinguished by their unique structural features—amphipathic compounds with diverse glycosidic architectures, including triterpenoid and steroid backbones. The presence of functional groups such as hydroxyl, methyl, and acetyl, alongside dihydrofuran-2(3H)-one structure, was confirmed via infrared spectroscopy (IR), underscoring these compounds’ complexity and potential bioactivity. Such structural traits are instrumental in their function as natural surfactants, reducing surface tension and forming micelles, making them suitable candidates for environmentally sustainable detergent formulations.
The extraction protocol detailed herein employs ethanol reflux followed by lyophilization and liquid-liquid partitioning, optimized to preserve the integrity and enhance the purity of the saponins. This process facilitates their use in detergent technology and maintains their bioactive potential for nutraceutical applications. In the nutraceutical context, saponins’ amphiphilic nature enhances their utility as dietary supplements. Their ability to interact with biological membranes may help modulate cholesterol levels, manage diabetes, and reduce inflammation, presenting a compelling case for their inclusion in health-oriented food products. Moreover, saponins’ antioxidative capabilities contribute to their potential to mitigate oxidative stress, further supporting their application in chronic disease management.
This interdisciplinary approach highlights the dual utility of marine saponins, transitioning from a traditional health supplement ingredient to a pivotal component in green detergent technologies. By harnessing their surfactant properties, this study paves the way for developing effective and environmentally benign detergent formulations. Additionally, it underscores the need for further research into saponins’ extraction, stability, and functional efficacy, ensuring that these natural compounds can meet both the stringent requirements of industrial applications and the delicate balance required for dietary use. In conclusion, marine-derived saponins present a promising horizon for nutraceutical enhancements and eco-friendly surfactants in detergent formulations.
Acknowledgements: This work was supported by Xunta de Galicia under grant number IN606B-2023/006. We also acknowledge the role of the Galician Supercomputing Centre (CESGA).
References
[1] X. Liu, et al., Valorization of Camellia oleifera oil processing byproducts to value-added chemicals and biobased materials: A critical review, Green Energy & Environment, 9(1) (2022).
[2] A. Hossain et al., Northern Sea Cucumber (Cucumaria frondosa): A Potential Candidate for Functional Food, Nutraceutical, and Pharmaceutical Sector. Marine Drugs, 18(274) (2020).
012 | Time Dependence of Gel Formation in Lyotropic Nematic Liquid Crystals: from Hours to Weeks
European Detergents Conference
| Fundamental Research
Max Dombrowski, Michael Herbst, Natalie Preisig, Cosima Stubenrauch, Frank Giesselmann
Institute of Physical Chemistry, University of Stuttgart, Pfaffenwaldring 55, 70569, Stuttgart, Germany
E-mail: max.dombrowski@ipc.uni-stuttgart.de
__________
The combination of lyotropic liquid crystals (LLC) and low molecular weight gelators (LMWG) for the formation of lyotropic liquid crystal gels (LLC gels) leads to a versatile and complex material combining properties of both parent systems. We gelled the calamitic nematic NC phases of two different micellar LLC systems using the LMWG 3,5-bis-(5-hexylcarbamoyl-pentoxy)-benzoic acid hexyl ester (BHPB-6). The systems of choice are (1) a binary LLC system with N,N-dimethyl-N-ethyl-1-hexadecylammonium bromide (CDEAB) as surfactant and water as solvent and (2) a ternary LLC system with N,N,N-trimethyl-N-tetradecylammonium bromide (C14TAB) as surfactant, n decanol as cosurfactant, and water as solvent. The formation of a gel network in the LLC host occurs at a critical gelator concentration as low as 1.0 wt%. Though containing similar surfactants, the gelled NC phases of the binary and the ternary systems show differences in their visual and gel properties. The gelled NC phase of the binary system remains clear for several days after preparation, whereas the gelled NC phase of the ternary system turns turbid within 24 hours. We investigated the time evolution of the gel strength with oscillation rheology measurements (a) within the first 24 hours and (b) up to two weeks after gel formation. The shape of the fibers was investigated over different time scales with freeze fracture electron microscopy (FFEM). We demonstrate that despite their similarities, the two LLC gels also have distinct differences.
Foyer 2nd Floor
013 | Hybrid Detergents Switch Toxic Detergent Species for Cells from Monomers to Aggregates
European Detergents Conference
| Fundamental Research
Marc Seewald, Jan-Simon Behnke, Leonhard H. Urner
Technische Universität Dortmund, Otto-Hahn-Str., 6, 44227, Dortmund, Deutschland
__________
Ionic detergents play important roles in households and industry, but are toxic to cells. Partially, toxicity stems from electrostatic interactions between detergents and negatively charged cell membranes. Whether detergent monomers or mixtures of monomers and micelles determine cell toxicity is not yet fully understood. To address this question, we establish a new detergent technology, i.e., ionic/non-ionic hybrid detergents. Our ionic/non-ionic hybrid detergents consist of a modular headgroup. The ionic head consists of cationic quaternary ammonium or anionic sulfonate. The non-ionic head can be glycerol or triglycerol. The modular chemistry delivers a modality to scale shielding of ionic head and electrostatic interactions by varying the relative size of non-ionic head. To investigate whether detergent monomers or mixtures of monomers and micelles are toxic to cells, we compare critical micelle concentration values and detergent concentrations required to kill mammalian HaCaT cells or diminish bacterial E. coli growth. Our results show that concentrations of cationic hybrid detergents required to kill cells were well below their critical micelle concentrations, suggesting monomers are the toxic species, regardless of cell type. Regarding anionic hybrid detergents, the toxic species depended on the cell type and shielding of ionic detergent head. In case of HaCaT, our data indicate that a better shielding of anionic head shifted the toxic species from monomers to mixtures of monomers and micelles. In contrast, concentrations of anionic hybrid detergents required to diminish E. coli growth were well above their critical micelle concentrations, suggesting mixtures of monomers and micelles are the toxic species. We conclude that cell toxicity is determined by charge of the detergent headgroup, shielding of the ionic detergent head, nature of detergent-membrane interaction, i.e., repulsive/attractive electrostatic interactions, and cell type. Our findings provide a better understanding on the role of detergent structure in modulating cell toxicity, from a supramolecular chemistry perspective.
Foyer 2nd Floor
014 | Diffusion Coefficient Analysis by Dynamic Light Scattering Enables Reproducible Determination of Critical Micelle Concentrations
European Detergents Conference
| Fundamental Research
Lena Nielinger, Katharina Alker, Leonhard H. Urner
Technische Universität Dortmund, Otto-Hahn-Str. 6, 44227 Dortmund, Deutschland
__________
In aqueous solution detergent monomers group together to form micelles, thereby enabling several applications, such as the stabilisation of emulsions, drug delivery and membrane protein purification. An important parameter in this context is the critical micelle concentration (cmc). Commonly used methods for determining the cmc include fluorescence spectroscopy, surface tension measurements and conductometry, all of which detect the presence of micelles indirectly. Another emerging approach is dynamic light scattering (DLS). DLS is a non-invasive technique, that enables the detection of micelles based on their light scattering properties. DLS enables the determination of cmc values based on concentration-dependent changes in light scattering intensities or diffusion coefficients of detergents in aqueous solution. Which of both approaches is more suitable for accurate cmc determination remains elusive. To address this question, here we compare both approaches regarding their ability to reproduce literature values. We observed that the concentration-dependant analysis of diffusion coefficients can be used to reproduce literature cmc values for all detergent classes. The concentration-dependent analysis of light scattering intensities does not reproduce literature values and is not applicable to ionic detergents in water. In contrast, the concentration-dependent analysis of diffusion coefficients enables also the determination of cmc values in aqueous buffers, which are frequently used in biological assays. Our results uncover strengths and limitations of both approaches for the determination of cmc values and deliver a streamlined guide that will facilitate the characterization of detergents in the future.
015 | Interfacial Properties and Phase Behavior of Mannosylerythritol Lipids and Mixtures with Anionic Surfactants
European Detergents Conference
| Fundamental Research
Moritz Stanek *1, Janine Birnbach *2, Peter Schmiedel *2, and Guillaume Delaittre *1
1) University of Wuppertal, Organic Functional Molecules, Gaußstraße 20, 42119 Wuppertal, Germany
2) Henkel AG & Co. KGaA, Henkelstraße 67, 40589 Düsseldorf, Germany
Presenting author e-mail: moritz.stanek@uni-wuppertal.de
Keywords: biosurfactants, microemulsion, interfacial tension, adsorption
__________
One way to reduce greenhouse gas emissions is to replace fossil-based resources with renewable resources, such as biosurfactants. Biosurfactants are microbial products that are biodegradable and have low toxicity [1]. Despite these positive aspects, the replacement of conventional surfactants with biosurfactants is complex [2] and therefore it is necessary to investigate the physico-chemical properties of systems containing biosurfactants and to identify synergetic combinations with other sustainable surfactants.
In the present study, the equilibrium and non-equilibrium physico-chemical properties of two different structures of the biosurfactant mannosylerytrithol lipid (MEL) were investigated. It was found that the MEL variants show low interfacial tensions at equilibrium and low time required to reach the equilibrium interfacial tensions for oil/water interfaces. Additionally, both lipids were combined with either sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) or sodium dihexyl sulfosuccinate (SDHS) to find synergistic combinations. The MEL variants demonstrated rapid adsorption velocity and lower interfacial tension at equilibrium when combined with one of the anionic surfactants than pure MEL.
References
[1] I. O. Olasanmi, R. W. Thring, Sustainability, 2018, 10, 4817.
[2] J. Birnbach, P. Schmiedel. M. Karg, Curr. Opin. Colloid Interface Sci., 2023, 68, 101765.
016 | Study of the Influence of Adsorption Kinetics of Surfactants on Oil Removal as a Function of Mechanical Action in a Washing Process
European Detergents Conference
| Fundamental Research
Maria Volk *1,2, Janine Birnbach *2, Peter Schmiedel *2, Kerstin Hoffmann-Jacobsen *1
1) Hochschule Niederrhein, Krefeld, Germany
2) GRR-Physical Chemistry, Henkel AG & Co. KGaA, Düsseldorf, Germany
__________
Our study contributes to the overall vision of predicting the oil-removing efficiency of surfactant systems based on their physico-chemical properties, thus enabling a more efficient development of sustainable detergents. In cleaning applications, textile surfaces are typically subjected to various forms of mechanical action. It can be presumed that different mechanical impact places different demands on the adsorption characteristics of the surfactant system. Our hypothesis is that constantly and fast changing interfaces between solid, liquid, and gaseous components might require surfactant systems with fast adsorption dynamics to decrease the interfacial tension in a fast manner. In processes with low mechanics, e.g. soaking, however, equilibrium interfacial properties of the surfactants might be more relevant. Thus, the aim of our study was to analyze the adsorption characteristics of different surfactant systems and to correlate them with the oil removal efficiency under various mechanical actions. Different mixtures consisting of technical ethoxylates and rhamnolipid were chosen as an example system since their adsorption characteristics vary significantly with the ratio of the components. The adsorption dynamics were analyzed using the Maximum Bubble Pressure Method, Spinning Drop and Pendant Drop Tensiometry. Small-scale oil removal experiments without or with low mechanical action showed that the equilibrium interfacial tension has a great impact on the oil-removal performance of the surfactant system.
Foyer 2nd Floor
017 | CO₂-switchable Additive and Surfactants
European Detergents Conference
| Fundamental Research
Robin R. Benedix *1,2, Diana Sottmann *1, Natalie Preisig *1, Volodymyr Kovalchuk *3, Philip G. Jessop *4 and Cosima Stubenrauch *1
1) Institut für Physikalische Chemie, Universität Stuttgart, Stuttgart, Germany
2) Max Planck Institute for Intelligent Systems, Stuttgart, Germany
3) Institute of Biocolloid Chemistry of the National Academy of Sciences of Ukraine, Kiev, Ukraine
4) Department of Chemistry, Queen’s University, Kingston, Canada
Presenting autor: Robin R. Benedix (robin.benedix@ipc.uni-stuttgart.de)
__________
Switchable materials in general and CO2-switchable materials in particular are of great interest in environmental research. The replacement of common non-switchable materials with their switchable counterparts has a great potential to make processes more environmentally friendly by enhancing reusability and circularity and thus reducing energy costs and material consumption. The mineral floatation process, which uses 90 % of the surfactants produced worldwide, is only one example where switchable material could find beneficial use. Inspired by this, the presented work deals with the surface and foaming properties of (a) aqueous solutions of a non-switchable surfactant where a CO2-switchable additive is added and (b) aqueous solutions containing CO2-switchable tail surfactants.
For studying (a) CO2-switchable additives, a 1:1 and a 1:5 (molar ratios) mixture of the non-switchable surfactant C14TAB (tetradecyltrimethyl-ammonium bromide) and the CO2-switchable additive TMBDA (N,N,N,N-tetramethyl-1,4-butanediamine) were used. It was found that surface properties, foamability, and foam stability can be changed by switching the additive with CO2 as a trigger. This is due to the surface activity of TMBDA in its neutral, i.e. unprotonated, form which disturbs the tight packing of the surfactant molecules and thus increases the average head group area. As a consequence, foams generated in the presence of N2 are less stable than the TMBDA-free counterparts. The diprotonated form of TMBDA, on the other hand, is a 2:1 valuable electrolyte with hardly any surface activity which affects surface but not foam properties. For studying (b) CO2-switchable tail surfactant, the novel anionic surfactant C8N(Me)C4SSn (sodium 4-(methyl(octyl)amino)butane-1-sulfonate) was first synthesized in the Stubenrauch group and shows promising switchable surface and foaming properties. In the presence of N2, the unprotonated surfactant is able to stabilize foams. By protonating the CO2-responsive trialkylamine group in the surfactants hydrocarbon chain, the amphiphilic nature of the surfactant is reduced, i.e. its ability to stabilize foams is reduced.
Foyer 2nd Floor
018 | Synthesis of Monomers, Co-stabilizer, and Surfactant Derived from Fatty Acids for Miniemulsion Polymerization
European Detergents Conference
| Fundamental Research
Maximilian Kepkow, Lea Omerbegovic, Sarah Schillat, Bernd Strehmel, Veronika Strehmel
Institute for Coatings and Surface Chemistry, Niederrhein University of Applied Sciences, Faculty of Chemistry, Krefeld, Germany
__________
The limited availability of fossil resources results in an increasing interest in bio-based starting materials, e. g. natural oils, for polymer synthesis. Properties of natural oils including viscosity, melting point, and crystallization are strongly affected by the composition of various glycerides and their chemical structure. Decomposition of the triglycerides results in several fatty acid fractions and glycerin.
In this work, oleic acid was first purified. This purification results in pure oleic acid and an oleic acid fraction with a high content on stearic acid. The pure oleic acid results in a methacrylate monomer in three reaction steps starting with esterification of oleic acid, e. g. with methanol, followed by epoxidation of the double bond of the methyl oleate obtained, and finally epoxy ring opening reaction of the 9,10-epoxy methyl stearate formed with methacrylic acid resulting in two methacrylate isomers in the absence of any additional solvent. Furthermore, esterification of commercial hydroxyethyl methacrylate with oleoyl chloride in the presence of triethyl amine results in a methacrylate monomer comprising the internal double bond originating from oleoyl chloride. Moreover, natural oils e. g. cotton seed oil and flour worm oil, respectively, containing high content on unsaturated triglycerides are used for methacrylate synthesis similar as described above. In addition, the oleic acid fraction containing a high proportion of stearic acid is converted with sodium hydroxide solution resulting in surfactant formation. Methyl oleate may function as co-stabilizer in combination with this surfactant.
Furthermore, miniemulsion polymerizations are carried out using the methacrylate monomers, surfactant, and co-stabilizer described above, and the results obtained are compared with those received for traditional monomers, surfactant, and co-stabilizer. Moreover, viscosity of monomers, co-stabilizer, and miniemulsion is discussed as function of shear rate. LUMiSizer investigation gives information about stability of the miniemulsion and polymer particle size obtained by miniemulsion polymerization.
019 | pH-Dependence of Phase Behaviour and Structure of Complexes of Cationic Microemulsion Droplets and Sodium Polyacrylate
European Detergents Conference
| Fundamental Research
Polyelectrolyte microemulsion complexes are complexes formed between oppositely charged microemulsion droplets and polyelectrolyte chains. These complexes display a large variety of tuneable properties and structures, allowing for potential application in drug delivery.
In this work one such system, comprised of a microemulsion, with 5mol% of the total surfactant concentration substituted by cationic surfactant, and the sodium salt of poly acrylic acid was studied. The influence of pH on the phase behaviour of the system was analysed at different mixing ratios, quantified by the charge ratio z = [−]/[−] + [+]. Through observation of the macroscopic phase behaviour, three distinct regions at polyelectrolyte excess (z > 0.5) classified by charge ratio z and pH were found. Stable regions at high z and pH > 7.5 as well as pH < 3, with a large biphasic area in between. These correspond to different levels of interaction between the microemulsion droplets and the polyacrylate, based on their respective pH-dependent charge. The presence of these distinct regions was confirmed by light scattering and zeta potential measurements, showing a variation in size and charge of the complexes.
The influence of ionic strength on the system was also studied, showing a shifting of both upper and lower phase boundary of the biphasic region towards lower pH upon addition of 50 mM NaCl.
The dynamics of phase separation were also probed by addition of autocatalytically degrading acid ester diethyl oxalate and recording the time dependent turbidity of the sample. These experiments showed almost instantaneous phase separation at the previously found phase boundary, as well as confirming the shifting of the phase boundary upon addition of 50 mM NaCl.
Through the conducted experiments a clearer picture of the underlying interactions to the macroscopic phase behaviour of the studied system in response to pH and ionic strength has emerged.
020 | How Can We Formulate Biosurfactants?
European Detergents Conference
| Fundamental Research
Janine Birnbach *1,2, Caroline Hartwig *2, Peter Schmiedel *2, Matthias Karg *1
1) Institut für Physikalische Chemie I, Heinrich-Heine-Universität Düsseldorf, Germany
2) HCB-Physical Chemistry, Henkel AG & Co.
__________
Many conventional surfactants for detergents are fully or partially made from fossil resources. One way towards greener chemistry is the production of surfactants from biomass via a fermentation process, by this biosurfactants are received. So far, there is no breakthrough in replacing conventional surfactants by biosurfactants, since biosurfactants have different, often more complex, structures and compositions leading to different physico-chemical properties. Therefore, simple substitution is not possible and the physico-chemical properties of biosurfactants need to be evaluated and understood, especially in multi-component systems, which are common in formulations.
This is why we focused on the state-of-the-art in the multi-component phase behavior of biosurfactants with a comprehensive literature review including our own works. We found that biosurfactants form a wide variety of different structures, some of which are not observed for conventional surfactants. Furthermore, the emulsion properties vary depending on the type of biosurfactant, the type of oil and whether or not a secondary surfactant is used. It can be concluded that individual formulations with biosurfactants need to be developed for different applications [1].
References:
[1] Birnbach, J., Schmiedel, P., Karg, M., COCIS, 2023, S. 101765.
021 | Chemical Composition Analysis of Biosurfactant-formulated Home Care Products
European Detergents Conference
| Fundamental Research
PhD Franco Pala, Jordan Tower, Weidong Li, Gleba Christ
Battelle, Norwell, MA, USA
__________
Bacterial-produced surfactants, such as rhamnolipids, sophorolipids, and lipopeptides, have been proposed as sustainable alternatives to synthetic surfactants used in home care products. In 2024, several biosurfactant-formulated commercial detergents were launched, indicating that a significant market change may occur in the coming years. To provide information on the challenges of formulating biosurfactant-based detergents, this research conducted the full chemical compositional analysis of three different types of biobased detergents: a laundry powder, a laundry liquid detergent, and a toilet cleaner. All three products were available in the 2024 Japanese market. This study aimed to provide a full chemical composition of the three biobased detergents, including the type, concentration, and chemical structures of surfactants and co-surfactants used in the formulations.
Using the capabilities of the Battelle World Detergent Program, analytical methods for the full characterization of biosurfactants formulated with other anionic and nonionic surfactants in commercial detergents were developed and are presented here. The full identification of the surfactant system of the three products required a combination of solvent extraction, solid phase separation, chemical hydrolysis, LC-MS/MS, and GC-MS analysis. Details of the analytical methods are presented in the paper.
The data analysis discussed here proves that sophorolipids with strong anionic characteristics were the biosurfactants used to formulate the three detergents. Furthermore, sophorolipids were the only surfactants present in the powder laundry detergent. Sophorolipids were used in a mixture with alkyl ether sulfates and alkyl polyglucosides in the liquid laundry detergent and the toilet cleaner. The paper presents the concentration, carbon chain distribution, and chemical structures of the surfactants used in the three biobased detergents.
022 | Characterisation of Novel Fat Binding Peptides and their Application for Solid Fat Removal at Low Temperatures
European Detergents Conference
| Fundamental Research
Christoph Bayer *1,5, Iva Anic *2, Peter Schmiedel *3, Arnd Kessler *1,
Karlheinz Graf *4, Mathias Ulbricht *5
1) Henkel AG & Co. KGaA, GRR Smart Washing Technology, Düsseldorf, Germany
2) Henkel AG & Co. KGaA, HSA Microbiology, Düsseldorf, Germany
3) Henkel AG & Co. KGaA, GRR Physical Chemistry, Düsseldorf, Germany
4) University of Applied Sciences Niederrhein, Institute of Physical Chemistry, Krefeld, Germany
5) University of Duisburg-Essen, Institute of Technical Chemistry, Essen, Germany
Presenting author e-mail: christoph.bayer@henkel.com
Keywords: Solid fat, lipase, peptide, low temperature
__________
The effect of both chemistry and temperature in cleaning processes is critical to the removal of solid and liquid fats from substrates. While liquid fats are removed by forming emulsions, solid fats must first be melted at high temperatures (T > 50°C) to be emulsified. [1] However, this process requires a considerable amount of energy to heat the cleaning liquid, which is not sustainable. Therefore, new ways to remove solid fats at low temperatures (T < 30°C) are needed. Lipase-catalyzed fat hydrolysis, which is well known from literature, is used for this purpose. [2] This approach is extended by the addition of novel peptides to promote the removal of solid fats in a sustainable manner. In this work, the desorption of solid fats was studied using the quartz crystal microbalance with dissipation monitoring (QCM-D). It was found that the characteristic time required for solid fat desorption is significantly reduced when small amounts of peptides are adsorbed onto the solid fat prior to lipase addition. This means that the order of addition plays a crucial role in this synergistic effect between lipase and peptide. Furthermore, it has been shown that the desorption time of the lipase-peptide systems is similar or even shorter than that of conventional lipase-surfactant systems. As a result, bio-based peptides can be considered as a sustainable alternative to conventional surfactants. References [1] Smulders, E. et al.: „Laundry Detergents", Wiley-VCH, 2002. [2] Snabe, T.; Petersen, S.B.: „Lag phase and hydrolysis mechanisms of triacylglycerol film lipolysis”, Chem. Phys. Lipids, 125 (2003), 69-82, https://doi.org/10.1016/S0009-3084(03)00072-0.
031 | Challenges of Unsaturated Fatty Acids in Cosmetic Formulations
Cosmetic Science Conference
| Personal Care
, Skin Care
Natural oils containing unsaturated fatty acids and secondary plant substances offer beneficial properties for skincare and human well-being in cosmetics. However, their susceptibility to oxidation poses challenges, potentially diminishing their efficacy and leading to adverse effects. This study explores the impact of oxidation on cosmetic formulations, focusing on skincare effectiveness, oxidative stress and skin damage, psychophysiological effects, and consumer perception. Investigating factors influencing oxidation in emulsions is crucial for understanding its effects.
The poster shows the oxidation of various oils in oil-in-water emulsions, revealing a correlation between unsaturated fatty acid content and oxygen consumption. Emulsions with higher levels of unsaturated fatty acids exhibited increased oxygen uptake, leading to oxidation and potential consumer rejection due to off-odors. To mitigate oxidation, costly antioxidants are typically used, but cheaper and more efficient alternatives are sought.
This study suggests the use of multifunctional antioxidants and odor-masking agents to prolong shelf life and enhance consumer acceptance. Future research should focus on determining sensory acceptance thresholds, investigating the effects of odor masking on shelf life and acceptance, and evaluating the impact of fatty acid oxidation products on skin health through in-vitro or in-vivo studies.
Understanding the complex interplay between oxidation, formulation stability, and consumer perception is essential for developing effective and appealing cosmetic products.
032 | Acetyl Zingerone, Ginger Inspired Molecule, Targets Multiple Antioxidant Pathways and Provides Skin Care Benefits
Cosmetic Science Conference
| Personal Care
, Skin Care, Sun Care
It is well established that skin ageing is accelerated under exposure to environmental stressors. These stresses generate free radicals, increase oxidative stresses, foster inflammation, perturb barrier function and mediate skin damages. Incorporating prophylactic ingredients, designed to prevent free radicals generation and propagation, into topical formulas is key to proactively care for skin on a daily basis.
We present an engineered molecule, Acetyl Zingerone (AZ), inspired by the chemistry of Ginger.
We show that AZ is a safe, off-white molecule, with high stability and reactivity to curb excess free radicals. AZ combines conventional scavenging with chelating and quenching activities. Therefore, more than breaking down oxidative radicals, AZ prevents their production, a key advantage of AZ over traditional antioxidants.
In solution, we have shown that AZ can protect Vitamin C derivative, TetraHexylDecyl Ascorbate, and potentiate its biological activities.
AZ shows further multiple biological benefits: 1) preventing melanocytes DNA damages; 2) reducing expression of inflammatory markers; 3) nurturing extracellular matrix integrity and; 4) reducing and reversing senescence markers. Altogether these benefits promote healthier skin homeostasis.
Consistent with this findings, clinical studies have shown that AZ can protect skin from sun-damages, reduce wrinkles and improve overall skin glow.
033 | A Naturally-Derived Multifunctional Ingredient for Personal Care
Cosmetic Science Conference
| Personal Care
, Preservatives
Consumers have become more and more conscious about the ingredients in their everyday-use products and the impact of those ingredients on both health and the environment. Personal care brands are therefore facing an increasing demand for products which are safer and more environmentally-friendly. To meet these demands, formulators are exploring alternatives in the form of multifunctional ingredients that can reduce or replace traditional ingredients. To better optimize use of the multifunctional ingredients in end-use products, the benefits provided by the ingredients, as well as the necessary dosing levels of the ingredients can be crucial factors.
One multifunctional ingredient that is readily biodegradable and derived from natural and renewable resources is showing great promise for use in personal care products. In our studies, this multifunctional ingredient has been found to enhance antimicrobial efficacy of various soft preservatives, including phenoxyethanol, sodium benzoate and benzyl alcohol, while showing no antimicrobial efficacy when used alone at the intended dosing level. In our further evaluations, this ingredient has also shown superior antimicrobial enhancement performance (i.e., broad spectrum protection when combined with other soft preservatives) as compared with some other commercially available boosters in personal care formulations. Personal care consumer end products containing this ingredient can even be eligible for Ecolabels.
In addition to showcasing the performance of the multifunctional ingredient, a full spectrum of multifunctional testing capabilities, including antioxidant, chelator, and antimicrobial enhancement, will also be discussed. These capabilities can support formulators in the selection and utilization of multifunctional ingredients, and this can ultimately lead to state of the art products that meet brand objectives and consumer demands.
034 | Model System to Evaluate Efficacy of Lightening Power of Oxidative Systems Containing Additives
Cosmetic Science Conference
| Personal Care
, Hair coloration
Bleaching is a common cosmetic procedure when looking at not only hair but also skin and dental treatments. Since bleaching is typically aggressive towards hair, skin and mucous membranes, actives to reduce damage and irritation are often added to the formulation, e.g. antioxidative actives and chelating agents. However, these actives can reduce the bleaching power which in turns leads to further needed adjustments of the formulation. Thus, a model system to evaluate this influence can massively reduce the time and resources needed for the development of an oxidative formulation as the decrease (or possible increase) of lightening can be considered early in the development process. In this study, a model system using microtiter plates was established to reduce the reaction volume to a minimum. Synthetic melanin was chosen as the representative pigment since melanin is the pigment molecule giving color to hair and hyperpigmentation in the skin. Melanin was lightened, using an alkaline peroxide-persulfate system. To this system, the different types of actives were added. The efficacy of lightening without and with actives was recorded by measuring the absorption of visible light. In doing so, it could be shown that the added actives had different effects on the bleaching system. Overall, the model system worked in accordance with previous data showing the influence of different actives while reducing time and effort in this new testing setup.
035 | Long-lasting Improvement and Prevention of Callus Formation, Cracks, and Skin Dryness on Stressed Feet
Cosmetic Science Conference
| Personal Care
, Skin Care
No skin area is stressed as much as the feet. Plantar skin has special requirements and is structured differently to skin on other parts of the body. It must withstand external mechanical stresses during physically changing conditions. People of different ages are affected by Hyperkeratosis of foot skin, a condition causing dry chapped skin, fissures, and even callused painful skin that is prone to infections.
It is therefore important for consumers to have a product that moisturizes the skin, makes it smooth, supple, and resistant to improve its appearance, and thus strengthens the skin barrier function to prevent pathogens from penetrating the cracked skin. In addition to alleviating the acute condition, the aim should also be to counteract a renewed deterioration of the skin condition and reinforce the skin’s appearance in the long term.
The present work examines the moisturizing as well as the preventive and long-lasting effectiveness of a skin care product with high urea content against callus expression, cracks, and dryness by skin hydration measurements and self-grading on an overall “In Use Effectiveness” test panel of 58 subjects, which was divided into subpanels “Preventive Effect” (N~30) and “Long-Lasting Effect” (N~28). After an initial treatment period of four weeks on both feet (subpanel “preventive”) / one foot (subpanel “long-lasting”), the preventive product effect was evaluated after an eight-week product treatment on one foot, and the long-lasting product effect was assessed daily within a two-week regression phase compared to untreated.
A moisturizing in use effectiveness as well as a preventive and long-lasting effect against callus formation, cracks, and dryness was shown. Almost all subjects agreed that the product prevents callus expression (90%), cracks (97%) and dryness (97%) and most test subjects agreed after a two-week regression phase to a long-lasting effect against callus expression (88%), cracks (92%), and dryness (81%).
036 | A Novel Liposome-actives Mixture Showed Collagen and Elastin Boosting Efficacy
Cosmetic Science Conference
| Personal Care
, Skin Care
A novel blend of four cosmetic active ingredients encapsulated by liposomes, known as product M, has been extensively studied for its interaction with the skin and its anti-aging effects. First the synergy of the four active ingredients was investigated by analyzing modifications in collagen and elastin after exposure to the actives on their own and together as a mixture. The penetration behavior of product M’s liposomes through the skin was examined using a novel method involving polar sensitive dyes to better understand their interaction with the skin. Subsequently, the biological activity of product M was assessed in human skin explants using selected biomarkers. Lastly an in-vivo study was organized to check the real-life applicability of the product, examining changes in collagen expression, wrinkle profile, and skin elasticity.
The liposomes in product M were shown to enhance the penetration of the active ingredients into the skin. The results of the penetration study indicated that modified skin packing facilitated deeper penetration of actives, ensuring better anti-aging efficacy. This effect is supported by the synergy of the four actives together. The ex-vivo experiments underlined this trend, by showcasing an increase of expression for hyaluronic acid, collagen I, collagen III, collagen IV, elastin, and GAGs after application of product M. The in-vivo study revealed a higher collagen density in the skin after application of product M in a formulation, leading to enhanced skin elasticity and reduced wrinkles.
The development of product M highlights the importance of taking into account the penetration behavior of liposomal delivery systems and the interaction of different actives when designing innovative and effective anti-aging treatments.
037 | High Throughput Microbiological Assay to Boost Preservative Selection and Development
Cosmetic Science Conference
| Personal Care
, Preservatives
Preservatives are a fundamental part of a cosmetic formulation to ensure consumers safety. Most of the listed preservatives are under heavy regulatory attack or under consumers scrutiny. Therefore, there is a growing need to find new alternatives or optimized combinations of still accepted solutions. High throughput assays enable rapid screening of large libraries of chemical compounds to discover new antimicrobial preservatives for use in cosmetics. We have developed an innovative high throughput assay to determine minimum inhibitory concentrations (MICs) and to investigate inhibition kinetics of potential cosmetic preservatives against common microbial contaminants. It enables an efficient determination of MICs and generation of inhibition curves to understand time- and concentration-dependent characteristics. By monitoring inhibition kinetics, our assay provides insights into mechanisms underlying preservative failure in challenge testing of finished formulations. The knowledge gained in this assay will help formulators to early anticipate performance gaps of preservatives and will avoid delay in go to marked due to failures in product preservation.
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