Our Poster Expositions

A special part of the SEPAWA® CONGRESS is the scientific and application-oriented poster exhibitions in the categories of Home Care, Personal Care, Fragrance Fundamental Research and Sustainability.
Visit our poster exhibition during regular opening hours.

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Foyer 2nd Floor
Okan Yüzüak (Hayat Kimya)

10 | Effect of Citrate on Stain Removal Performance in Laundry Detergents

Citric acid is one of the most widely produced organic acids in the world. It is produced by fermentation from sustainable resources such as sucrose or glucose. Its production process and biodegradability make citric acid an eco-friendly raw material for detergents.
Citrate (mostly used in the form of sodium citrate) is mainly used as a builder in laundry detergents. Its acidic form, citric acid, is preferred for pH adjustment in liquid laundry detergents. It has been repotrted that citric acid can boost surfactant performance by reducing water hardness via sequestering calcium and magnesium ions. The effect of citrate goes beyond surfactant action, as the amount of available calcium ions have impact on protease and amylase stain removal performances. In addition, calcium ions impart structural stability to protease and amylase which has a significant effect on enzyme stability in liquid laundry detergents. Furthermore, the effectiveness of citrate in removing bleach-sensitive stains such as tea and wine stains makes its use in liquid detergents more promising.
In this study; the effect of citrate on surfactant performance, enzyme activity, enzyme stability and stain removal properties were syatematically evaluated. Citrate mediated tea stain removal and oxidant mediated stain removal mechanisms are discussed in detail.

Foyer 1st Floor
Larissa Jackszis (Deutsches Textilforschungszentrum Nord-West gGmbH | Universität Duisburg-Essen, Fakultät für Chemie)

101 | Approaches to the Reliable Production of Cold Cosmetic Emulsions and to the Sustainable Hot/Warm Emulsification

The conventional production of emulsions in the cosmetic industry is energy and time consuming, with heating and cooling steps accounting for approximately 90% of the total energy consumption. With the market focus on environmentally friendly processes, cold emulsification, which reduces both energy and production time, has gained popularity. However, the spread of cold emulsification is hampered by the limited selection of suitable emulsifiers and the high technological risk involved in converting formulations.
The present project addresses a distinct research need in this area, also taking into account recent findings on multifunctional ingredients. In particular, in our experiments, surface-active multifunctional ingredients such as selected fragrances and preservatives are added prior to homogenization, which is only possible at the end of the cooling process in conventional hot production. The results obtained indicate that commonly used fragrances with citrus notes are surface active in the dynamic range and contribute to the stabilization of the droplets during the emulsification process even at room temperature. The aim of the R&D work is to define a protocol for the cold production of stable emulsions, taking into account the effect of multifunctional compounds in the early stages of the process.
In addition, the plasticizing effect of fragrances on the melting point of fat-like emulsifiers has been investigated to broaden the feedstock base for energy efficient hot-cold emulsification. A suitable selection and optimized addition of multifunctionals can be expected to reduce energy consumption by at least 30%.

Foyer 1st Floor
Milena Wekel (Connect Chemicals GmbH)

111 | Sustainable, Multifunctional Polycitronellol Polymers Improve Hair Shine and Combability

Consumers and formulators increasingly seek healthier and more sustainable ingredients for beauty and personal care products. Formulators face challenges in finding sustainable, silicone free alternatives that meet consumer expectations an d bring high product performance P2 Science developed a new upcycled molecule P olycitronellol from pine trees with a patented and green chemistry process.
Polycitronellols exhibit unique sensory and performance properties on skin and hair. They can be easily incorporated into cosmetic emulsions as part of the oil phase, functioning as emollients, solvents, pigment dispersants, deposition aids, defoamers, and sensory modifiers. Their versatility makes them valuable multifunctional ingredients for personal care applications.

To prove hair care fun ctions studies were carried ou t A rinse off hair conditioner with 1% polycitronellol was tested on its efficacy on damaged (bleached blonde) and undamaged (natural wavy brown) hair types using several instruments to assess combing force, hair breakage, and shininess.

Our findings reveal that polycitronellol significantly enhances the ease of wet combing. Specifically, it reduces the combing force needed more effectively than other common emollients, indicating superior detangling and conditioning properties. This effect was consistent across different hair and conditioning properties. This effect was consistent across different hair types, showcasing its broad applicability.types, showcasing its broad applicability.

In tests for hair breakage polycitronellol outperformed other emollients, particularly silicone oil, which actually increased breakage. This suggests that polycitronellol’s molecular structure might protect against mechanical damage during styling.

Additionally, the shininess of hair conditioned with polycitronellol was comparable to that treated with commercial emollients. This indicates that while polycitronellol improves hair strength and manageability, it does not compromise on aesthetic qualities such as glossiness.

These benefits likely stem from polycitronellol’s ability to form a thin, durable film on hair cuticles, enhancing their natural hydrophobicity and protecting the underlying keratin fibers.

In summary, polycitronellol offers a promising alternative to traditional hair care emollients, excelling in conditioning, reducing breakage, and maintaining shine without negative effects.

Foyer 1st Floor
Milena Wekel (Connect Chemicals GmbH)

112 | QT-Green: a Multifunctional and Sustainable Hair Conditioner Abstract Title

In our times people are increasingly aware of the importance of using environmentally sustainable products and place higher priority on eco-friendly beauty products. In Germany 26% of interviewed persons have consciously purchased environmentally sustainable products, while 44% are very keen in buying them. Italy, France and Spain countries follow the same trend.

In Hair Care market, cationic conditioners deposit positively charged conditioning agents onto the negatively charged hair shaft providing increased softness and manageability. Commonly these are synthetic compounds, but the cosmetic market is in need of natural solutions. We’ve developed a natural, biodegradable and COSMOS approved multifunctional hair conditioning agent capable to help formulators in developing sustainable hair care products.

Depending on the usage, the measurable performances of QT-Green range from an antistatic to a real conditioning agent, increasing the moisture of hair and scalp.
QT-Green is soluble in water, cold processable and suitable for transparent formulations.
It avoids the unpleasant typical scent of conditioning agents and has several characteristics as:
Improves foam stability & quality: The use of QT-Green in rinse off formulations has no negative effect on foam, on the contrary it supports more compact and longer lasting bubbles.
Increases viscosity: It was demonstrated that QT-Green increases the viscosity of your formulation similar to or even better than benchmark Behentrimonium and Cetrimonium chloride, as well as improves the foam quality and stability.
Increases moisture, intensive care on wet hair
Longer water absorption time on hair strands are recorded, indicating a smoother and more hydrophobic outside shaft, synonym for healthier hair structure.
QT-Green provide significantly better organized cuticles.

QT-Green reduces static charge on hair, is very gentle on scalp & hair and has no greasy after feel on dry hair.

Foyer 1st Floor
Patrizia Pietropaolo (Kalichem srl)

113 | Kerashaft Alab: “Salon Technology”, 100% Green Cationic Conditioning

Kerashaft Alab (INCI name: hydrolyzed vegetable protein, saccharomyces polypeptides, arginine, lysine, leucine, aqua) presents a groundbreaking solution in hair care, offering a natural alternative for conditioning hair versus standard salon treatments.This cationic conditioner is composed of bio-active peptides derived from selected plant and probiotic sources. Unlike traditional ingredients like amodimethicone and polyquaterniums, it is 100% green, sourced exclusively from vegetable and bio-fermented origins.One of its remarkable features is its versatility across all hair textures, particularly excelling on afro textures, including kinky and coily hair. Its specificity for texture 4 hair fills a gap in the market, providing a much-needed solution for textured hair treatments.In terms of performance, hair treated  with this natural conditioner demonstrates exceptional resistance to combing, with a 130% increase in resistance compared to a placebo group. It significantly reduces hair breakage and enhances smoothness, silkiness, and tangle-free effects.Furthermore, it improves hair gloss by 13.0% compared to the placebo, surpassing synthetic alternatives. It reduces hair frizz by 42.2%, outperforming the comparison Quat. These improvements are visually evident through micro-camera images, showcasing enhanced vitality and well-adhered cuticles.Approved worldwide, including in China, it  adheres to Cosmos and Natrue standards, boosting an ISO16128 naturality value higher than 99% . It complements or replaces conventional silicon and acrylates-based Quats while maintaining salon-quality effects. Its oligopeptides restructure damaged hair cortex, while its charged amino acids neutralize static charges, promoting luminosity, conditioning, detangling, anti-frizz, restructuring, and manageability improvements.In styling products, this ingredient’s unique polymeric nature and tailored substantivity make it ideal for formulations aimed at avoiding build-up. Ex vivo studies confirm its superiority in anti-frizz, resistance to combing, gloss, and restructuring actions compared to market benchmarks. Kerashaft Alab represents a revolutionary advancement in hair care, providing effective conditioning while adhering to strict green standards. 

Foyer 1st Floor
Dr. Kai Lu (SpecChem)

114 | Revitalizing Aging: SpecPure® PC's Unique Multi-Faceted Approach

Abstract: Skin aging refers to the gradual deterioration of the skin’s structure, elasticity, and appearance over time. It involves a complex interplay of oxidative stress, inflammation, glycosylation, autophagy dysregulation, etc. Extracted from Poria cocos, a frequently utilized Chinese medicinal mushroom, SpecPure® PC has been demonstrated in clinical trials to possess a potent anti-wrinkle effect on the human skin. Investigation into its anti-aging mechanisms has revealed its multiple-level inhibitory effects on oxidative stress and inflammation which contribute to accelerated aging. Moreover, it has been discovered that SpecPure® PC could suppress haemoglobin glycosylation and impaired autophagy which disrupts cellular repair mechanisms. Collectively, application of SpecPure® PC in skin care products leads to alleviation of diverse visible aging signs on the human skin.

Foyer 1st Floor
Dr. Kai Lu (SpecChem)

115 | SpecPed® Lip Plump: An Oil-Soluble Multi-Functional Peptide Solution Specially Designed for Plumping the Lips

Abstract: The plump appearance of lips is strongly associated with beauty and is a research focus of lip care products. Recently, a growing body of evidence shows that different water-soluble peptides could efficiently contribute to the lip volume increase. Yet, their solubility remains a challenge for the majority of lip care products. Utilizing W/O nano-microemulsion encapsulation technology, we encapsulated several active ingredients in the oil phase to develop SpecPed® Lip Plump, which could increase subcutaneous fat volume and help promoting the biosynthesis of collagen and mucopolysaccharides in the lips. Clinical studies using 2% SpecPed® Lip Plump lipstick showed that after 4 weeks of use, 2% SpecPed® Lip Plump not only could smooth wrinkles, eliminate lip lines and increase lip smoothness, but also could efficiently reduce the abnormal redness caused by dilated capillaries. 87.5% of subjects believed that using 2% SpecPed® Lip Plump lipstick could effectively improve lip gloss and moisturizing, reduce lip wrinkles and achieve a lip plumping effect. 

Foyer 1st Floor
Rita Cartaxo (Symrise AG)

116 | Innovative Upcycled, Green Technology for PQ-7 and PQ-10 Replacement

When using a hair care product consumers expect a conditioning effect and the sensory properties linked to this benefit as it indicates hair health.

Improved wet and dry combability, film formation, superior lubrication, smoothness, and shine are the most noticeable performances of synthetic polyquats, still widely used in modern hair care formulations.

Over the last 5 decades or more, synthetic polyquats have played a fundamental role in the performance of hair care applications, which makes this class of compounds difficult to replace, especially given the market’s demands for effectiveness.

However, the Planet is struggling with climate change, the depletion of natural resources, over consumption of water, waste generation and atmospheric pollution. For this reason, consumers, as well as industries, have been called to rethink their behavior and choices and to act more sustainably.

Plant-based alternatives must perform similarly to or better than synthetic polyquats to be accepted. SymFeel Quat Green® provides hair conditioning, improves wet and dry combability, hair softness and lubricity, resistance to breakage, frizz control and shine, while meeting the main green standards : 100% plant-based of natural origin, readily biodegradable, upcycled from a by-product of the white beet sugar industry, approved by Cosmos and obtained by clean organic synthesis.

Atomic Force Microscopy (AFM) results showed that SymFeel Quat Green® deposition made the damaged hair surface smoother by 30% compared to placebo-treated hair. It is proof of principle that the material can form a film on the surface of the hair, improving the condition of the cuticles and consequently the sensory properties.

Foyer 1st Floor
Dr Manuela Bermudez (Quimivita S.A.)

117 | Upcycling Beauty: Exfobreeze's Sustainable Personal Care Solution

The cosmetics industry is becoming more conscious of the environmental impact of its products and is taking steps to offer more sustainable options. The design phase plays a fundamental role in integrating sustainable practices, making the focus and selection of sustainable ingredients crucial. In this context, the concept of upcycling (transformation of by-products or waste into higher value products) is gaining prominence as a way to address environmental concerns.
In response to this demand, Exfobreeze (Quercus Suber Bark) emerges as an innovative exfoliant sourced from upcycled cork, obtained from the bark of an autochthonous and exclusive tree of the Mediterranean forests. The cork used in its production is recycled from particles that cannot be used in cork stopper manufacturing. Exfobreeze is an example of upcycling, sustainable and natural alternative to microplastic beads in scrub applications, offering an environmentally friendly choice without compromising on efficacy.
To evaluate the efficacy and safety of Exfobreeze, a clinical study was carried out on 20 healthy female subjects with dry to combination skin. The product, which contains 2% cork particles in a natural aqueous gel, was applied to one half of each participant’s face, with the other half serving as a control. The results showed a significant decrease in the skin desquamation index in the treated areas, confirming Exfobreeze’s exfoliating efficacy. Feedback from participants was extremely positive, indicating that our product effectively exfoliates, softens and smooths the skin, with 100% of the participants expressing an intention to purchase the product. No adverse reactions were observed, highlighting the product’s excellent skin tolerance.
Responding to environmental needs and recognizing the importance of exfoliation as an essential practice for maintaining healthy skin, Exfobreeze seamlessly integrates sustainability into skincare. Its sustainability, versatility, efficacy and safety make it ideal for incorporation into any skin, body and scalp care formulation.

Foyer 1st Floor
Chloé Beaume (Eastman)

118 | Eastman Esmeri™ CC1N10: Advancing Long-Lasting Optical Effects in Color Cosmetics with Biodegradable Cellulose Ester Micropowder

In recent years, consumer demand for clean beauty products has increased significantly. This, along with regulatory pressure, has prompted raw material suppliers and brand owners to seek safer, sustainable solutions. While there are already several alternatives to microplastics available, formulators still struggle to find suitable options for their needs. Eastman has addressed these challenges by leveraging over 100 years of expertise in material innovation. Eastman offers naturally derived and biodegradable alternatives to replace microplastics, by utilizing expertise in cellulosic chemistry. Introducing Eastman Esmeri™ CC1N10, Eastman’s first cellulose ester micropowder specifically designed for color cosmetic applications. It integrates with lipophilic systems, delivering outstanding optical effects such as soft focus effect, and ensuring long-lasting wear properties all while being naturally derived and freshwater biodegradable (in compliance the (EU) 2023/2055 “Synthetic Polymer Microparticles ” regulation).

Foyer 1st Floor
Claudia Teubner (Symrise AG)

119 | Level Up Your Sunscreen: A Powerful Solubilizer for Crystalline UV Filters

Developing effective, stable and safe sunscreen formulations is becoming increasingly demanding. While consumers request higher SPFs formulators’ choice for accepted UV filters is shrinking. Driven by regulatory restrictions and public opinion, liquid UV filters can only be used in limited quantities. Thus, crystalline UV filters are playing an important role in modern sunscreen concepts.
SymSol® ProSun is a new solubilizer for crystalline UV filters and a star performer for high-SPF sunscreen products with extra benefits. The synergistic emollient blend has been developed to overcome the challenges of solubilization and recrystallization issues with crystalline UV filters to ensure stable sunscreens and a reliable and sustained SPF. In addition, SymSol® ProSun shows excellent pigment wetting properties for mineral UV filters like ZnO and TiO2, while including a pleasant skin feel to skin and sun care concepts.

Foyer 1st Floor
Dr. Daouia Messaoudi (Groupe Berkem)
Dr. Antoine Robert (Groupe Berkem)

120 | Development and evaluation of eco-friendly hand sanitizer formulations with plant polyphenolic extracts from Berkem Biosolutions®

Using a hand sanitizer is the simplest and most practical way of preventing the transmission of germs and infections. The use of plant-based hand sanitizers has become increasingly popular in recent years. Plant-based products offer natural and organic alternatives to traditional chemical-based hand sanitizers. Incorrect use of chemical-based disinfectants can be toxic to humans and the environment.
The R&D Laboratories of Groupe Berkem has developed and patented several specific botanical extracts, rich in active molecules, particularly polyphenols, not classified as hazardous, nor as a human health or environmental hazard and specially adapted to the needs and challenges of human hygiene.

This research focuses on formulating effective natural alcohol-free hand sanitizers with different plant extracts coming from Vitis Vinifera and Arnica montana. The formulated sanitizer proved excellent antimicrobial activity against pathogenic bacteria, yeasts, fungi and viruses in accordance with European and American protocol standards.

The excellent potential of these plant polyphenolic extracts from Berkem Biosolutions® as biobased antimicrobial agents for hand hygiene is reported.

Foyer 2nd Floor
Arielle Springer (Fraunhofer IVV)

31 | Challenges of Unsaturated Fatty Acids in Cosmetic Formulations

Natural oils containing unsaturated fatty acids and secondary plant substances offer beneficial properties for skincare and human well-being in cosmetics. However, their susceptibility to oxidation poses challenges, potentially diminishing their efficacy and leading to adverse effects. This study explores the impact of oxidation on cosmetic formulations, focusing on skincare effectiveness, oxidative stress and skin damage, psychophysiological effects, and consumer perception. Investigating factors influencing oxidation in emulsions is crucial for understanding its effects.

The poster shows the oxidation of various oils in oil-in-water emulsions, revealing a correlation between unsaturated fatty acid content and oxygen consumption. Emulsions with higher levels of unsaturated fatty acids exhibited increased oxygen uptake, leading to oxidation and potential consumer rejection due to off-odors. To mitigate oxidation, costly antioxidants are typically used, but cheaper and more efficient alternatives are sought.

This study suggests the use of multifunctional antioxidants and odor-masking agents to prolong shelf life and enhance consumer acceptance. Future research should focus on determining sensory acceptance thresholds, investigating the effects of odor masking on shelf life and acceptance, and evaluating the impact of fatty acid oxidation products on skin health through in-vitro or in-vivo studies.

Understanding the complex interplay between oxidation, formulation stability, and consumer perception is essential for developing effective and appealing cosmetic products.

Foyer 2nd Floor
Dr. Olivier Garnier (SYTHEON)

32 | Acetyl Zingerone, Ginger Inspired Molecule, Targets Multiple Antioxidant Pathways and Provides Skin Care Benefits

It is well established that skin ageing is accelerated under exposure to environmental stressors. These stresses generate free radicals, increase oxidative stresses, foster inflammation, perturb barrier function and mediate skin damages. Incorporating prophylactic ingredients, designed to prevent free radicals generation and propagation, into topical formulas is key to proactively care for skin on a daily basis.
We present an engineered molecule, Acetyl Zingerone (AZ), inspired by the chemistry of Ginger.
We show that AZ is a safe, off-white molecule, with high stability and reactivity to curb excess free radicals. AZ combines conventional scavenging with chelating and quenching activities. Therefore, more than breaking down oxidative radicals, AZ prevents their production, a key advantage of AZ over traditional antioxidants.
In solution, we have shown that AZ can protect Vitamin C derivative, TetraHexylDecyl Ascorbate, and potentiate its biological activities.
AZ shows further multiple biological benefits: 1) preventing melanocytes DNA damages; 2) reducing expression of inflammatory markers; 3) nurturing extracellular matrix integrity and; 4) reducing and reversing senescence markers. Altogether these benefits promote healthier skin homeostasis.
Consistent with this findings, clinical studies have shown that AZ can protect skin from sun-damages, reduce wrinkles and improve overall skin glow.

Foyer 2nd Floor
Dr. Ziang Li (LANXESS Deutschland GmbH)

33 | A Naturally-Derived Multifunctional Ingredient for Personal Care

Consumers have become more and more conscious about the ingredients in their everyday-use products and the impact of those ingredients on both health and the environment. Personal care brands are therefore facing an increasing demand for products which are safer and more environmentally-friendly. To meet these demands, formulators are exploring alternatives in the form of multifunctional ingredients that can reduce or replace traditional ingredients. To better optimize use of the multifunctional ingredients in end-use products, the benefits provided by the ingredients, as well as the necessary dosing levels of the ingredients can be crucial factors.

One multifunctional ingredient that is readily biodegradable and derived from natural and renewable resources is showing great promise for use in personal care products. In our studies, this multifunctional ingredient has been found to enhance antimicrobial efficacy of various soft preservatives, including phenoxyethanol, sodium benzoate and benzyl alcohol, while showing no antimicrobial efficacy when used alone at the intended dosing level. In our further evaluations, this ingredient has also shown superior antimicrobial enhancement performance (i.e., broad spectrum protection when combined with other soft preservatives) as compared with some other commercially available boosters in personal care formulations. Personal care consumer end products containing this ingredient can even be eligible for Ecolabels.

In addition to showcasing the performance of the multifunctional ingredient, a full spectrum of multifunctional testing capabilities, including antioxidant, chelator, and antimicrobial enhancement, will also be discussed. These capabilities can support formulators in the selection and utilization of multifunctional ingredients, and this can ultimately lead to state of the art products that meet brand objectives and consumer demands.

Foyer 2nd Floor
Leonie Hansen (Henkel AG & Co. KGaA, Düsseldorf, Germany | Institute for Pharmaceutical Technology and Biopharmacy, Heinrich Heine University Düsseldorf, Germany)

34 | Model System to Evaluate Efficacy of Lightening Power of Oxidative Systems Containing Additives

Bleaching is a common cosmetic procedure when looking at not only hair but also skin and dental treatments. Since bleaching is typically aggressive towards hair, skin and mucous membranes, actives to reduce damage and irritation are often added to the formulation, e.g. antioxidative actives and chelating agents. However, these actives can reduce the bleaching power which in turns leads to further needed adjustments of the formulation. Thus, a model system to evaluate this influence can massively reduce the time and resources needed for the development of an oxidative formulation as the decrease (or possible increase) of lightening can be considered early in the development process. In this study, a model system using microtiter plates was established to reduce the reaction volume to a minimum. Synthetic melanin was chosen as the representative pigment since melanin is the pigment molecule giving color to hair and hyperpigmentation in the skin. Melanin was lightened, using an alkaline peroxide-persulfate system. To this system, the different types of actives were added. The efficacy of lightening without and with actives was recorded by measuring the absorption of visible light. In doing so, it could be shown that the added actives had different effects on the bleaching system. Overall, the model system worked in accordance with previous data showing the influence of different actives while reducing time and effort in this new testing setup.

Foyer 2nd Floor
Inge Holland (Kneipp GmbH)

35 | Long-lasting Improvement and Prevention of Callus Formation, Cracks, and Skin Dryness on Stressed Feet

No skin area is stressed as much as the feet. Plantar skin has special requirements and is structured differently to skin on other parts of the body. It must withstand external mechanical stresses during physically changing conditions. People of different ages are affected by Hyperkeratosis of foot skin, a condition causing dry chapped skin, fissures, and even callused painful skin that is prone to infections.
It is therefore important for consumers to have a product that moisturizes the skin, makes it smooth, supple, and resistant to improve its appearance, and thus strengthens the skin barrier function to prevent pathogens from penetrating the cracked skin. In addition to alleviating the acute condition, the aim should also be to counteract a renewed deterioration of the skin condition and reinforce the skin’s appearance in the long term.
The present work examines the moisturizing as well as the preventive and long-lasting effectiveness of a skin care product with high urea content against callus expression, cracks, and dryness by skin hydration measurements and self-grading on an overall “In Use Effectiveness” test panel of 58 subjects, which was divided into subpanels “Preventive Effect” (N~30) and “Long-Lasting Effect” (N~28). After an initial treatment period of four weeks on both feet (subpanel “preventive”) / one foot (subpanel “long-lasting”), the preventive product effect was evaluated after an eight-week product treatment on one foot, and the long-lasting product effect was assessed daily within a two-week regression phase compared to untreated.
A moisturizing in use effectiveness as well as a preventive and long-lasting effect against callus formation, cracks, and dryness was shown. Almost all subjects agreed that the product prevents callus expression (90%), cracks (97%) and dryness (97%) and most test subjects agreed after a two-week regression phase to a long-lasting effect against callus expression (88%), cracks (92%), and dryness (81%).

Foyer 2nd Floor
Merthe Schwachenwald (Merck Electronics KGaA Cosmetic Actives)

36 | A Novel Liposome-actives Mixture Showed Collagen- and Elastin Boosting Efficacy

A novel blend of four cosmetic active ingredients encapsulated by liposomes, known as product M, has been extensively studied for its interaction with the skin and its anti-aging effects. First the synergy of the four active ingredients was investigated by analyzing modifications in collagen and elastin after exposure to the actives on their own and together as a mixture. The penetration behavior of product M’s liposomes through the skin was examined using a novel method involving polar sensitive dyes to better understand their interaction with the skin. Subsequently, the biological activity of product M was assessed in human skin explants using selected biomarkers. Lastly an in-vivo study was organized to check the real-life applicability of the product, examining changes in collagen expression, wrinkle profile, and skin elasticity.

The liposomes in product M were shown to enhance the penetration of the active ingredients into the skin. The results of the penetration study indicated that modified skin packing facilitated deeper penetration of actives, ensuring better anti-aging efficacy. This effect is supported by the synergy of the four actives together. The ex-vivo experiments underlined this trend, by showcasing an increase of expression for hyaluronic acid, collagen I, collagen III, collagen IV, elastin, and GAGs after application of product M. The in-vivo study revealed a higher collagen density in the skin after application of product M in a formulation, leading to enhanced skin elasticity and reduced wrinkles.

The development of product M highlights the importance of taking into account the penetration behavior of liposomal delivery systems and the interaction of different actives when designing innovative and effective anti-aging treatments.

Foyer 2nd Floor
Dr. Petra Schaal (Clariant)

37 | High Throughput Microbiological Assay to Boost Preservative Selection and Development

Preservatives are a fundamental part of a cosmetic formulation to ensure consumers safety. Most of the listed preservatives are under heavy regulatory attack or under consumers scrutiny. Therefore, there is a growing need to find new alternatives or optimized combinations of still accepted solutions. High throughput assays enable rapid screening of large libraries of chemical compounds to discover new antimicrobial preservatives for use in cosmetics. We have developed an innovative high throughput assay to determine minimum inhibitory concentrations (MICs) and to investigate inhibition kinetics of potential cosmetic preservatives against common microbial contaminants. It enables an efficient determination of MICs and generation of inhibition curves to understand time- and concentration-dependent characteristics. By monitoring inhibition kinetics, our assay provides insights into mechanisms underlying preservative failure in challenge testing of finished formulations. The knowledge gained in this assay will help formulators to early anticipate performance gaps of preservatives and will avoid delay in go to marked due to failures in product preservation.

Foyer 2nd Floor
Dr. Tobias J. Fütterer (Inolex)

41 | Sustainable Solubilization: Fine-tuning Polyglyceryl Esters for Fast Micellar Dynamics to Improve Solute Bioavailability in Microemulsions

Solubilizers, i.e. microemulsifiers, are critical ingredients across many applications, e.g. for solubilisation of hydrophobic active ingredients or essential oils. Specifically, antimicrobial or preservation ingredients often require solubilizers to achieve clear formulations. However, solubilizing such components can inhibit their efficacy. They either co-micellize with or are sequestered in the solubilizer micelles, impeding bioavailability and rendering them less active. We hypothesize that an approach to achieve these two contradictory requirements – effective and robust solubilization combined with maintained solute bioavailability – is to utilize solubilizers with fast micellar dynamics. Sufficient surface activity enables generation of thermodynamically stable, clear microemulsions. The fast kinetics of monomer-micelle exchange and micelle disintegration and reformation enhance probability of solute-substrate interaction, in turn enhancing bioavailability and activity of the solubilized compounds.
We designed a new 100% natural polyglyceryl ester (PGE) surfactant exhibiting fast micelle dynamics compared to conventional solubilizer technologies, to deliver sustainable solubilization without compromising solute activity, including preservation efficacy. PGEs offer a sustainable, versatile ingredient platform with outstanding safety and toxicological profiles for human and environmental health. Surfactant kinetics were measured via bubble pressure tensiometry using surface adsorption kinetics as a proxy for micelle exchange and formation kinetics. Data analysis was performed through exponential fits leading to adsorption constants in dependence of surfactant concentration and applying a basic first-order kinetic model. Bioavailability and activity of solutes was tested with two model systems: amphiphilic preservation technologies and hydrophobic antimicrobial components used in oral care applications. For both systems, solutes were either solubilized with the PGE surfactant (Polyglyeryl-10 Heptanoate) exhibiting fast micelle dynamics or with conventional solubilizers, e.g. Polyglyceryl-10 Caprylate/Caprate and PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil. Formation of microemulsions, versatility and efficacy of Polyglyceryl-10 Heptanoate was demonstrated with various essential oils, fragrances, and hydrophobic actives, e.g. vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate), in comparison to conventional solubilizers.

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