Current lectures/posters
(available in the SOFW media library after the congress)
University of Naples Federico II, Pharmacy Department
Assistant Professor/ Researcher
18.10.2024
11:15
11:45
Room 15
Phenylalanine Butyramide (FBA): An Innovative Hybrid Compound Effective in Improving Skin Health
Scientific Conference (SEPAWA)
| Personal Care
, Flashlights in Cosmetic Formulation Science
(available in the SOFW media library after the congress)
English
The skin microbiota (SM) represents an ecosystem composed of numerous microbial species interacting with each other, as well as with host epithelial cells, contributing to skin integrity and homeostasis. Several of the beneficial effects exerted by the SM are aroused by the microbial metabolites Short-Chain Fatty Acids (SCFAs), such as Butyric Acid (BA).
SCFAs can be used in cosmetic formulations against skin diseases to protect SM by preserving and/or restoring their natural balance.
Since BA is poorly used in cosmetics because of its unpleasant smell, an odorless butyrate derivative, such as Phenylalanine Butyramide (C13H18N2O2, FBA) was developed. FBA have two carboxylamine bonds: one within L-phenylalanine’s acid group and another linking to butyric acid, that improves the pharmacokinetics and safety of butyric acid.
Study evaluated FBA’s skin permeation, soothing, anti-reddening effects, and its ability in treating post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation via topical application. The FBA diffusion tests were estimated in vitro using a Franz-type vertical diffusion cells. The soothing action was evaluated in vivo by SkinColorimeter CL400, measuring the erythema index. Skin lightnening and anti-aging action was assessed through a double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical trial involving 40 subjects using Visia 7th and Cutometer® MPA 580. FBA shows a significative soothing action (decreases the erythema index −15.7% after 30’, p<0.001 and −17.8% after 60’, p<0.01). FBA has been shown to improve the viscoelastic properties of the skin (skin pliability/firmness – 30.0 % vs placebo at T4w, p<0.001, skin elasticity +40.0% vs placebo at T4w, p<0.001) and is able to counteract post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, resulting in lighter complexion and a decrease in skin spots (decreases skin lightnening – 52.0% vs placebo at T4w, p<0.001).
Study underscores FBA's hybrid, safe potential. It has no genotoxicity or mutagenic activity and does not cause chromosome breaks. It innovatively releases BA into skin effectively, overpassing its organoleptic limits.