Lecture program

Structure® M3 co-surfactant significantly reduces the irritation potential of commonly used surfactant systems, offering customers the optimal balance of mildness, cleansing, and foaming in shampoo, facial cleanser, and body wash formulations. Designed with sustainability in mind, it is available as a waterless, free-flowing powder of high natural content (NOI1 = 85), and it is readily biodegradable (per OECD 301B2). Additionally, it is cold-water processable and compatible with both sulfate- and sulfate-free surfactant systems. Depending on the surfactant system and the total percent of the surfactant system, including Structure® M3 in your formulation can reduce the irritation potential between 10 to over 50%. In our tests the irritation potential is measured by zein solubility tests. The high mildness of Structure® M3 is achieved due to its relatively larger micelles. If you increase the percentage of M3 in your formulation the average micelle size will become bigger and the mildness increases.

1. NOI= Natural Origin Index
2. OECD 301B = Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development- aligned test that uses respirometry to determine the biodegradability of the material.

Fermentation derived sophorolipids (INCI: Glycolipids) are truly multifunctional surfactants, that combine gentle cleansing properties with additional skin care benefits. Being derived from locally grown feedstocks, these biosurfactants are sustainable and feature a low carbon emission footprint. Compared to traditional counterparts, these fully natural surfactants feature outstanding skin mildness. Furthermore, they are microbiome-friendly and help to protect the skin barrier function. These features make sophorolipids ideal candidates for novel facial cleansers formulations that can advance our daily personal care routine, particularly for consumers with blemished and sensitive skin.

This talk will provide insight into relevant properties of two fully commercialized products, that differ regarding their lactone to acidic sophorolipids ratio: CARINEX SL L features a high lactone content, while CARINEX SL A primarily contains acidic sophorolipids.

Human panel patch tests have been conducted to evaluate the skin irritation potential of both products as well as their impact on the transepidermal water loss, compared to classical surfactant benchmarks. Within this test, not only Sodium Laureth Sulfate but also sulfate-free surfactants, like Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate, Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate, and Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, have been included. Furthermore, the cleansing power and make-up remover performance, depending on the lactone sophorolipids content, have been demonstrated. Ultimately, human panel tests have been conducted that revealed additional beneficial effects on blemished skin.

In conclusion, Sophorolipids are an emerging class of innovative surfactants that are not only sustainable and in line with major market trends but also feature unique properties, that are particularly relevant for facial cleansing.

Adapinoid® is the only third generation retinoid for cosmetic use. This novel active is a precursor of adapalene which is proven to increase collagen, reduce photoaging, balance skin tone, soothe inflammation, reduce pores, and clear acne-prone skin. Unlike first generation retinoids (vitamin A types like retinol and retinoic acid), Adapinoid has far fewer toxicity, stability, and skin-irritation concerns. Clinically tested to be superior to retinol with 2x greater wrinkle reduction, 10x greater redness reduction, and 70x greater TEWL reduction.

Retinol has been the gold standard for skin care, but now it faces several challenges that will impact its standing and usage. The most significant topics are unwanted skin irritation, difficulty in stabilization and the regulatory restrictions, which limit the usage and require a notice, if Retinol is used.
Additional concerns are the nighttime usage, due to the poor light stability and the mostly synthetic origin, which does not meet the expectation of modern consumers.
Wouldn’t it therefore be a dream come true, if Retinol could be replaced with a natural and sustainably sourced active ingredient, without sacrificing the efficacy of the final product?
HYPSKIN, a high-performance anti-aging bioactive, is obtained from sulfated polysaccharides from in marine algae. These algae are sustainably collected from the northeastern coast of Brazil, supporting three local communities, and educating them on marine life protection.
HYPSKIN, a clinically proven skin-care ingredient, offers benefits comparable to Retinol. It activates specific skin sensors, triggering keratinocytes to release cohesion proteins, strengthening the skin barrier, and improving the structure of the stratum corneum. Additionally, it stimulates fibroblast activity and boosts the production of key components like Collagen and Elastin.
HYPSKIN, the superior alternative to Retinol, is safe and non-irritating, unlike its counterpart. It surpasses Retinol in terms of enhancing radiance, skin homogeneity, and density. HYPSKIN is also more consumer friendly. Clinical tests have proven that HYPSKIN and Retinol perform similarly in reducing fine wrinkles, lines, and dark spots, as well as improving skin thickness. These results are noticeable after just 21 days of use at a 1% concentration. Moreover, HYPSKIN is easy to formulate and stabilize, without interfering with the main components of the formula.
It is, therefore, time to wake up. After all, with HYPSKIN, there is no longer a need to make sacrifices.

In view of the upcoming restrictions of use and the obligation to declare retinol and its derivatives in cosmetic products, the search for efficient yet safe alternatives is gaining momentum.Samphira Oil Bioactive is a lipophilic CO2 extract from sea fennel (Crithmum maritimum) with retinol-like properties, but without any irritation potential, as could be shown in comparative studies even on sensitive skin.Samphira Oil Bioactive promotes the exfoliation of the stratum corneum without damaging the epidermal structure. Simultaneously, it supports the proliferation of the keratinocytes for a thicker and denser epidermal tissue. The active stimulates the synthesis of collagen I and reduces the expression of collagen-degrading matrix metalloproteases (MMP). In vivo, Samphira Oil Bioactive reduces skin roughness and decreases the pore size significantly. Wrinkles around the eyes are smoothed out visibly and significantly, luminosity and homogeneity of the complexion are improved in an equally significant manner.Samphira Oil Bioactive is a 100% natural active ingredient and certified Cosmos organic.

Endophytes are symbiotic microorganisms living inside plants promoting beneficial effects on their growth and development. This plant microbiota synthesizes bioactive phytochemicals, providing a viable alternative for cosmetic actives while mitigating host plant overexploitation. We have successfully developed a novel platform for the isolation and biotechnological production of plant endophytes as a sustainable source for natural and traceable active ingredients. We report here results obtained with the endophytic yeast Kwoniella mangroviensis ferment extract (KMFE).Metabolomic analysis revealed secondary metabolites with interesting antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory bioactivities, along with major compounds such as beta-glucan and xylitol. Our in vitro studies demonstrate that KMFE exhibits anti-pollution effects on human keratinocytes exposed to urban dust and anti-aging activity by inducing extracellular matrix formation in human dermal fibroblasts, as revealed by RNA-Seq whole-transcriptome analysis.The first commercially available active based on this new technology is Shiloxome™. This active has a special focus on the lipid barrier integrity, ensuring optimal moisture retention and epidermal function. In a first-of-its-kind analysis of the skin’s lipidome, the lipidome profile and variation after skin treatment was evaluated thus precisely proving how the ingredient helps to improve the skin barrier.Overall, 328 lipids were identified in the 240 samples analysed. Since a total of 114 lipids were found significantly different after treatment with the active a bioinformatic analysis was performed with the differentially regulated lipids, to better understand the impact of Shiloxome™ on the skin lipidome. In this regard, two different breakthrough outcomes were found:1. Shiloxome™ prevents the skin lipids from pollution-induced oxidation2. Shiloxome™ increases the total chain length of the lipidomeFurther instrumental studies have been carried out that show that Shiloxome™ improved key parameters related to skin againg such as: TEWL, glow, evenness, microstructure or skin elasticity.